high ph and fungus

0

HI – I HAVE SEVERAL PROBLEMS THAT NEED TREATMENT … AND I WOULD CHERISH YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS – THE SUBJECT IS A CENTIPEDE LAWN – IN HIGH PH SOIL – AND ATTENDANT FUNGUS PROBLEMS THAT COME WITH HIGH PH — HERE ARE SOME INTRO FACTS …

·         LOCATION EAST TEXAS – SIMILAR TO YOUR GEORGIA SOIL – SUGAR SAND IN PLACES – RED IRON BASED SOIL IN OTHERS

·         OUR GRASS AREA IS 4000 SQ FEET –  SOME 8 YEARS IN PLACE

·         ON AVERAGE THE PH  IN FUNGUS TROUBLE SPOTS IS  8.0 + AND OF COURSE FUNGUS LIKES HIGH PH WHILE CENTIPEDE LIKES PH 6.0 – SO NEED TO REDUCE PH 1.5 TO 2.0 POINTS OVER 4000 SQ FEET  FOR HEALTHY CENTIPEDE AND EQUALLY IMPORTANT REDUCE “FUNGUS FRIENDLY” SOIL

·         WE WERE GONE FOR 2 MONTHS THIS SUMMER – JUST GOT BACK AND FOUND 1500 TO 2000 SQ FEET OF LAWN WAS TOTALLY DEAD FROM FUNGUS  –  [WILL NEED TO RESEED OR RE SOD] — REMAINDER IS DOING FINE  — SO I HAVE AN IMMEDIATE  SEVERE FUNGUS  PROBLEM IN 2000 SQ FEET AND A LONGER TERM FUNGUS MAINTENANCE PROBLEM IN THE OVERALL 4000 SQ FEET

I AM SURE I COULD BLUNDER THROUGH ALL YOUR PRODUCTS AND FINALLY FIND A HELPFUL COMBINATION – JUST TIME AND MONEY! – FOR SOMEONE LIKE ME WHO IS JUST SMART ENOUGH TO GET IN TROUBLE YOU OFFER  TOO MANY OPTIONS!!! I HAD A LOCAL SOURCE OF

WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO DO IS PLACE AN ORDER THAT GIVES ME A 12 MONTH SUPPLY OF CHEMICALS TO ADDRESS [1] FUNGUS AND [2] PH REDUCTION – BOTH PROBLEMS ARE LONG TERM – SO 12 MONTHS IS SORT OF A STARTER KIT

FINALLY — HAVE WEEDS AND GRASS IN ASIAN JASMINE AND FESCUE/MONKEY GRASS – ANY RECOMMENDATIONS? – AND OUR FALLS ARE RATHER MILD LIKE YOURS – STILL 70’S AND LOW 80’S – SHOULD FUNGUS TREATMENT START NOW OR IN SPRING?

THANKS W.W.

If you review our SOIL PH CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn keeping the PH in balance is key for insect, weed and fungus control with most any kind of turf. Centipede is no different and in fact more susceptible than others to the impact of an improperly balanced PH. So for now, you need to address the high PH first and one of the best way to get it adjusted is with some SULFUR GRANULES. If you don't yet have a SOIL PH PROBE, get one and start applying the Sulfur with the goal being to get your PH down close to 6.0. More importantly, you'll need to monitor the PH to make sure it doesn't creep back up on you again. For some yards, this means taking readings every 2-3 months and in some instances, applying Sulfur as frequently as once a quarter.

Only after the PH is in check should you consider applying some ALGAE and FUNGUS KILLER. This can be done once the PH is okay whether it's in December or next spring some time. I would also recommend using it at least once a year to help prevent any return of the fungus.

Lastly, the Asian Jasmine and Monkey Grass are susceptible to a wide range of broadleaf weed killers so I'm hesitant to recommend spraying them with anything that would target similarly structured weeds. But I think you can apply something like POAST GRASSY WEED KILLER which targets grass like unwanted Bermuda and Fescue. Review the GRASSY WEED KILLER LABEL to be sure it's okay for use on your ground cover. I know it's commonly used in flower beds; it's helpful controlling creeping grasses in unwanted areas. As for the broadleafs; I'm afraid you'll have to resort to some good old fashioned man power known as "pulling weeds" to get rid of them :)

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Soil PH Control Article:  http://www.soil-ph.com/soil-ph

Sulfur Granules:  http://www.non-toxic-pest-control.com/granules/sulfur-90-granules

Soil PH Probe:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1735.html

Algae and Moss Killer:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1623.html

Poast Grassy Weed Killer:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2004.html

Poast Grass Weed Killer Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/poast_grass_killer_label.pdf

Filed under how to treat by  #

Leave a Comment